Rows of recycled vehicle body panels in a salvage yard next to a technician inspecting a used door in a clean repair bay

LKQ Used Parts: When Insurers Push Them and Why We Push Back

OEM Parts & Certification

LKQ Used Parts: When Insurers Push Them and Why We Push Back

A fair, plain-spoken look at what LKQ and recycled parts really are, why insurers specify them, where they make sense, where they do not, and how a certified shop fights for the right parts.

LA Lakeside Auto Center 10 min read June 17, 2026
Gold Class Certified OEM Certified I-CAR & ASE
Rows of recycled vehicle body panels in a salvage yard next to a technician inspecting a used door in a clean repair bay

When your insurer sends an estimate after a collision, you may notice three little letters next to some of the line items: LKQ. They stand for "like kind and quality," and they usually mean the company wants to repair your car with a used part pulled from another vehicle rather than a brand-new factory one. That is not automatically a bad thing. For some parts it is perfectly reasonable. For others it deserves a hard second look. This guide walks through what LKQ parts are, why insurers ask for them, where they belong, where they do not, and how we advocate for the right part when it matters most.

Key Takeaways

  • "LKQ" means like kind and quality: a used or recycled part from a similar vehicle, meant to match the original in fit and function.
  • Used parts can be reasonable for many non-structural items, but they carry real risks on safety, structural, airbag, and EV high-voltage components.
  • You generally choose your repair shop and can request genuine OEM parts; a certified shop has the documentation to negotiate for them, though it is not guaranteed on every claim.

What "LKQ," used, and recycled parts actually mean

"LKQ" is shorthand for like kind and quality. On a repair estimate it flags a part that is not new and not factory-sealed, but instead recovered from another vehicle of the same make, model, and year range that was retired or totaled. The phrase is meant to promise that the substitute is at least equal to the original in fit, function, and condition. You may also see these called recycled parts, salvage parts, or simply used parts. They all describe the same idea: a component with a prior life on another car.

It helps to separate three categories that often get blurred together. Genuine original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts are made by or for the automaker and sold under its name. Aftermarket parts are new components built by independent suppliers to imitate the original. LKQ or recycled parts are neither new nor aftermarket. They are pre-owned OEM pieces, which is part of their appeal: a recycled OEM fender was genuinely made by the automaker, even if it spent time on a different vehicle first.

The "like kind and quality" language is not just shop slang. It is the standard wording in insurance regulation. A legislative review of non-OEM parts rules found that at least 35 states regulate how insurers can require these parts, with most rules patterned on a National Association of Insurance Commissioners model regulation. That same review notes many states require a written disclosure on the estimate so you can see exactly what is being proposed.

Pro Tip

Read your estimate line by line. Each part is usually coded so you can tell what is being proposed: OEM (new factory part), A/M or AM (new aftermarket), and LKQ or RECY (used or recycled). If a code is unclear, ask your shop or adjuster to spell it out before any work begins.

Why insurers specify LKQ and recycled parts

The honest answer is cost, and it is not a secret or a scandal. Used and recycled parts are meaningfully cheaper than new factory parts, which keeps repair bills and, in turn, premiums lower across a whole pool of policyholders. The Insurance Information Institute notes that generic and recycled crash parts are typically far less expensive than OEM parts and that these savings help keep insurance prices competitive. From the insurer's seat, specifying a sound used fender instead of a new one on an older car is simply prudent claims management.

There is an environmental argument too. Reusing a healthy panel from a vehicle that has reached the end of its life keeps usable material out of the scrap stream and avoids the energy cost of building a brand-new part. For a non-critical component in good condition, that can be a genuinely sensible choice that we are happy to support.

The key word, though, is sound. An insurer's estimate is written to a budget, often before anyone has inspected the actual used part that will arrive. The promise of "like kind and quality" is only as good as the specific piece in the box. That is where a careful shop earns its place in the process, and where a balanced conversation about each part really matters.

A technician pointing at parts line items on a printed collision repair estimate clipped to a clipboard

Where used parts can be reasonable, and where they should not go

We want to be fair here, because fairness is the whole point. Used parts are not the enemy. For plenty of components, a clean recycled OEM piece can be a smart, economical choice that puts a genuine factory part back on your car for less money. Good candidates are typically non-structural and non-safety items that you can inspect and verify: a door shell, a trunk lid, a tail-light housing, a mirror, a grille, a wheel, or interior trim. If a recycled door arrives straight, rust-free, and undamaged, it can serve you well for years.

The picture changes sharply once a part has a safety or structural job to do. Structural components are engineered to crush and fold in a precise, predictable way during an impact, and they are joined with specific welds and adhesives. A used structural part carries an unknown history. It may have been stressed, partially repaired, or subtly bent in its first life in ways no quick glance reveals. Automaker positions are blunt on this. Toyota, for example, advises that because of the sensitive nature of safety and performance systems and their effect on crashworthiness, it strongly recommends genuine parts and recommends against alternative parts in collision repair, a position echoed across the industry through I-CAR guidance.

Airbags and other restraint components are a category of their own, and the stakes could not be higher. A safety restraint system has one chance to work correctly. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has warned that substandard replacement air bag inflators have killed and seriously injured drivers, sending metal fragments into faces and chests or deploying too slowly to protect an occupant in an otherwise survivable crash. The agency specifically urges owners of vehicles with unknown repair histories to confirm their airbags are genuine. For a part this critical, "close enough" is not a standard we are willing to accept.

Important: structural and safety parts

Structural members, frame and unibody sections, airbags, seat-belt assemblies, and other safety-critical components are not the place for an unverified used part. Their job is to protect you in the next crash, and a hidden flaw can defeat that protection when you need it most. For these, we advocate for genuine OEM.

Electric vehicles add another layer

If you drive a Tesla, Rivian, or another EV, used high-voltage parts demand extra caution. Battery modules, high-voltage cabling, and related components are part of an energized system that must be handled to factory procedure. A used high-voltage part with an unknown thermal and charging history is not something to take on faith. We treat EV high-voltage and battery-adjacent components the same way we treat structural and airbag parts: genuine OEM and factory-correct procedure, no shortcuts.

The real risks behind a used part

Even on parts that are reasonable candidates for recycling, it is worth understanding what can go wrong so you can ask good questions. The risks are not hypothetical, and an honest shop names them out loud.

  • Unknown history. A used part comes from a vehicle whose accident and repair record you cannot fully see. Prior stress, a quick prior fix, or corrosion that started on the donor car can ride along into your repair.
  • Fit and finish. A panel that is even slightly tweaked can throw off gaps, alignment, and paint match. Modern bumpers and panels also carry mounting points for sensors, so a fit issue can become a calibration issue.
  • Hidden damage. Bends, cracks behind brackets, and prior poor repairs are not always visible until a part is mounted and the car is back together.
  • Corrosion. A used part may carry rust you cannot see at delivery, and once installed it can spread to surrounding metal over time.
  • No warranty. Used parts frequently come with limited or no warranty. Automakers are clear that their factory coverage does not extend to salvage parts. Toyota, again, states that its transferable limited warranty does not cover used salvage or imitation parts, or the adjoining parts those substitutes cause to fail or rust.

None of this means every used part is a gamble. It means each one deserves inspection before it goes on your car, and that some parts deserve a firm no.

A vehicle structural frame rail next to an airbag module on a workbench, the kinds of safety parts that should be genuine OEM
A used part is a fair choice on a fender and a dangerous bet on a structural rail. The job of a good shop is to know the difference and stand on it.

Genuine OEM vs aftermarket vs used: a side-by-side

It helps to see the three options next to each other. None is universally right. The best choice depends on the part, the vehicle, and what that part is being asked to do.

Factor Genuine OEM Aftermarket Used / LKQ
Source New, made by or for the automaker New, made by independent suppliers Pre-owned OEM part from a similar vehicle
Fit Built to factory spec Usually close; can vary by supplier Depends on the donor part's condition
Safety on structural parts Engineered for original crash performance Generally limited to cosmetic skin parts Not recommended; unknown stress history
Warranty Backed by factory standards Supplier warranty; varies Limited or none; salvage excluded by automakers
Corrosion Factory coating, fresh New, coating varies May carry pre-existing rust
Cost Highest Lower than OEM Often the lowest up front

One nuance worth stating plainly: the Insurance Information Institute points out that quality aftermarket and recycled parts do not, on their own, reduce a vehicle's value and that exterior generic parts are not shown to compromise safety. That is true for the cosmetic skin of the car. The caution we add is about structural and safety components, where automaker positions and federal safety warnings point firmly toward genuine parts. Both things can be true at once, and a fair shop holds both.

Your rights and how to push back

Knowing your options changes the conversation. A few points hold true in most situations, though the exact rules vary by state and policy, so it is always worth confirming the specifics of yours.

First, you generally get to choose your own repair shop. The Insurance Information Institute is direct that consumers have the right to use the shop of their choice and are not required to use an insurer's direct repair program. Second, an insurer typically cannot force a specific type of part on you, though if their estimate is based on a cheaper part, they can ask you to pay the difference for a costlier one. The same source notes that insurers cannot require a policyholder to use only certain kinds of repair parts. Third, many states entitle you to a written disclosure of non-OEM parts on the estimate, which gives you the paper trail to ask informed questions.

If you want to push back on a used or aftermarket part, here is a practical order of operations:

  1. Get the itemized estimate in writing and identify every LKQ, recycled, or aftermarket line.
  2. Ask which parts are structural or safety-related, and request genuine OEM for those, citing the automaker's repair position.
  3. Have your shop document why an OEM part is required, using manufacturer procedures and position statements adjusters recognize.
  4. If the insurer holds firm, ask about paying the OEM price difference, or escalate within the company or to an independent appraisal.

For a deeper walk-through, see our guides on OEM vs aftermarket vs used parts, whether insurance can force aftermarket parts, and how to negotiate OEM parts with your insurer.

How a certified shop negotiates the right parts

This is where certification stops being a wall plaque and starts doing real work. Because Lakeside Auto Center is fully certified, holding Gold Class, OEM, I-CAR welding, and ASE credentials, we have the standing and the documentation to advocate for genuine factory parts where they matter. When we tell an adjuster that a structural rail or a restraint component needs to be OEM, we are not offering an opinion. We are pointing to the automaker's own written repair procedures and position statements, the kind of evidence the claims process is built to recognize.

Our process is straightforward. We disassemble and inspect, we identify every part the estimate proposes and what its real job is, and we sort the genuinely reasonable used candidates from the components that must be new and factory-correct. Then we negotiate. In a good number of cases we are able to get genuine OEM parts approved on the components that protect you and preserve your car's integrity. We want to be honest that this is something we pursue and often win, not a guarantee on every claim. Some used parts are perfectly acceptable, and we will tell you when one is. You can learn more about our structural repair work, where this judgment matters most.

How Lakeside Auto Center Helps

Our certifications give us the standing to insist on genuine OEM parts where safety and structure are at stake, and we advocate for them even when an insurer prefers a cheaper used part. We pursue this on every relevant claim and often win it, though it is never guaranteed. We are fair too: when a recycled part is genuinely the right call, we will say so.

Genuine OEM parts Fully certified advocacy Insurance claim handled A–Z

Frequently Asked Questions

What are LKQ parts?

LKQ stands for "like kind and quality." On a repair estimate it refers to a used or recycled part recovered from a similar vehicle, meant to match your original in fit, function, and condition. They are pre-owned OEM components, distinct from both new factory parts and new aftermarket parts.

Can insurance make me use used parts?

Generally no. The Insurance Information Institute notes that insurers cannot require you to use only certain kinds of repair parts, though if their estimate is based on a cheaper used part, they can ask you to pay the price difference for a new OEM one. You also have the right to choose your own repair shop. Exact rules vary by state and policy.

Are used auto parts safe?

It depends entirely on the part. A clean recycled door or trunk lid in good condition can be a sound, economical choice. Structural members, airbags, seat-belt assemblies, and EV high-voltage parts are a different matter; their unknown history can hide damage or wear, and automaker positions and federal safety warnings point firmly toward genuine parts for these.

Do used parts come with a warranty?

Often little or none. Used parts may carry a limited warranty from the recycler, but automaker factory warranties typically do not cover salvage parts. Toyota, for example, states its transferable limited warranty does not cover used salvage or imitation parts or the adjoining parts they cause to fail or rust.

Can I request OEM parts instead of LKQ?

Yes, in most cases. You can ask for genuine OEM parts, especially on safety and structural components, sometimes by covering the price difference. A certified shop can document the manufacturer procedures that call for OEM and negotiate on your behalf. We pursue this often and win it in many cases, though it is not guaranteed on every claim.

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